![]() When I think of the post-recession movement toward what we were then calling the ‘upscale-casual’ model, I think of Old Major first. “Justin saw the future before just about anybody in town,” Tobias said. … It was a playland of thought and passion and technique and just doing so much stuff for the first time.”Īll the experimentation paid off: In its first years, Old Major won accolades from local publications to national magazines. “Now I’m sitting here looking back at it. “I opened up Old Major to teach myself how to make salami,” Brunson told us in an interview last week. Where Masterpiece had introduced the city’s lunch-goers to a 12-hour brisket sandwich, and Wild Catch had allowed Brunson to dive into his other passion of fresh fish, it was Old Major that really brought out the best in the Iowa-born chef. But I can hardly blame (owner and chef Justin Brunson) for following his vision given that it seems to be unusually sharp.”īrunson opened Old Major in 2013 after starting Masterpiece Deli and serving as head chef of the since-closed seafood restaurant Wild Catch. “I can’t think of another place quite like it. “I’ll miss the hell out of Old Major, and I think it leaves a big hole in the scene,” Ruth Tobias, a longtime Denver-based food writer, told The Denver Post. ![]() It also will likely serve as a bellwether - as much in its departure as it was upon its arrival - for changes to come in Denver’s restaurant scene. But for fans, this whole-animal butchering, charcuterie-making kitchen will surely be one of the saddest closures to date. Old Major isn’t the first or the oldest or the largest Denver restaurant to close permanently during the coronavirus shutdown. Tuesday, September 26th 2023 Home Page Close Menu
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